Food
It's the meat that is the star at Chad's
By Margo Hernandez
arizona daily star
Tucson, Arizona | Published: 05.14.2008
When you walk in the door at Chad's Steakhouse and Saloon, you immediately feel at home.
Maybe it's the familiar décor — all woody and Old West.
More likely it's the greeting from the friendly staff that immediately sets diners at ease.
Whatever it is, there is no mistaking what you're gonna get at Chad's — a really good steak and a no-nonsense meal.
Appetizers here are a throwback to an era when shrimp cocktail was
exotic and fried potatoes were more popular. They include chicken
strips ($6.45), potato skins ($5.95) and fried zucchini sticks ($6.45).
The starters may be an afterthought because dinner entrees include
bread, salad, beans and a choice of potatoes or rice. After finding out
that dinner included the extras, we didn't see a need for the
appetizers.
On both recent visits, the dinner salad set a pleasant tone for
the rest of the meal. Truthfully, there was nothing out of the ordinary
in this salad. It was just a good, crisp mix of lettuces, julienned
carrots, olives, broccoli, tomato and croutons. Diners get a choice of
several dressings. If you want, the server will sprinkle feta or blue
cheese on top.
The restaurant's renowned bread arrives soon after you sit. Tasty,
warm slices of buttery bread rolls topped with Parmesan cheese were
gone shortly after the server placed them on the table.
But we were there for good steaks and prime rib. Chad's delivered on both.
We ordered Chad's Signature Rib-eye Steak ($20.95), medium. We
were taken by the description billing it as a hand-cut, Black Angus
steak that's "melt-in-your-mouth" good.
It came to the table darkly caramelized and full of charbroiled
flavor on the outside. But it was red, juicy and tender on the inside.
For meatatarians, this surely is the same steak they serve up in heaven.
Chad, by the way, is the name of the previous owner's son. Owners
Shaun and Sandi Herrington kept the name when they bought the
steakhouse about 41/2 years ago.
For our other entree, we ordered a medium-rare prime rib ($17.95
for the smaller portion, $20.95 for the larger). We didn't have any
complaints with this tender, juicy and flavorful cut swimming in au
jus. We had the smaller portion and that was plenty of beef for even
big eaters.
But it came to the table closer to rare than medium rare, though
not so much as to send it back. And we discovered that we enjoyed it as
much as the prime rib we usually order.
On the second visit, we had a porterhouse steak ($22.95) and Chad's baby-back ribs ($15.95 half slab, $19.95 for the full slab).
Again, this steakhouse did a great job on the meat entrees. The
ribs (the half slab was plenty) were slathered in a sweetly tangy sauce
that complemented the fall-off-the-bone rib meat.
Like the rib-eye on the previous visit, the ribs had a nice char
flavor on the outside that gave them that desired grilled taste.
Because eating ribs is messy business, they're served with plenty of
pre-packaged hand wipes on the side.
The porterhouse is definitely a macho-size steak. It was so good
my dinner partner said the steak had that "delicious char-broiled
taste" three times. While the flavor was the selling point, the steak
was also tender and juicy.
Chad's did strike a couple of minor sour notes. On both visits the
baked potatoes were overcooked. The first time, we enjoyed only a
couple of forkfuls of potato because the skin had hardened far into the
potato.
On the second visit, in addition to being overcooked, the potato was just barely warm enough to melt the butter topping.
On the other hand, the sweet potato was perfect, and with a little
brown sugar and butter on top, it went down well with the entrees. On
both visits, the beans — too salty, too spicy — remained untouched by
all diners.
The minor hiccups didn't mar the dinner. And we had no reason to complain about the service.
On both visits we noticed that the clientele was a diverse group
of families, business people in suits, retired folks and young couples.
The love of a good steak, it seems, lasts a lifetime.
Restaurant review
● Contact reporter Margo Hernandez at 618-1923 or at mhernandez@azstarnet.com.